A couple of days ago I visited Buco Nero at Roslagsgatan, the sister restaurant of the Stockholm institution Caffe Nero. I was surprised when I saw the actual name of the restaurant since I was convinced that the name was Bocca Nero. Bocca Nero would somewhat incorrect translate to "black mouth" but the name was instead Buco Nero, which translates to to "black hole".
The entrance is also sharing obvious similarities with a black hole. A discrete glass door in a black wall leads straight down into the concrete basement. After finally entering the basement it's not just any basement, it has a great warmth and a nice atmosphere. The huge and open kitchen in the middle together with the rough concrete walls and red furniture details creates really nice foundations for a great restaurant.
The menu is genuinely Italian with a little extra focus on pasta. The beverage list is though somewhat of a disappointment with mainstream wines and beers from all over the world. A little more inspiration would have done well for the over-all impression.
In terms of food we ordered a downright perfect antipasti plate. Some may argue for the lach of vegetables but, I cannot complain when there is such a variety of salamis, hams, and cheeses. It was also very nicely served on a large wooden platter.
Following the antipasti I got a mushroom pasta with pancetta and a mix of fresh herbs. The pasta was excellently boiled and the affective experience was close to perfect. Considering the emphasis on mushrooms in the menu description I would have liked to see the mushrooms come through a little more. They had a little unfortunate been overwhelmed by the pancetta and the herbs. Anyhow, as already mentioned, it was so tasty that I anyway don't want to complain.
The bathrooms was one of the most futuristic installations I have seen in any restaurant in Sweden. The sinks could possible be mistaken for a urinal a late night and I think that form over function was valued by the designer. Anyhow, they are a vivid source of colour and may contribute as a subject of conversation when you dinner companions don't really qualify.
In conclusion, this is a really nice place and with a little more effort on the drink-list this could very well turn into a stable institution in the borderlands of tavern and concept dining.
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Lucas Spinnars
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