Yesterday I visited the Vieviunum wine fair in Vienna. Hosted in the beautiful and pompous Hofburg in central Vienna the cut-glass chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and with the powerful ceiling paintings it was definitely one of the better scenes for a wine fair. It was not difficult to feel the tide of history flowing through the body when walking through the numerous rooms and tasting wines from the over 500 exhibitors represented. There was though probably one major difference between now and when the Habsburg family resided there - the wines. The upswing of Austrian wine in the last two decades was most definitely obvious in all of the halls.
The fair is without doubt mainly for Austrian wines even though central/south eastern Europe was decently represented as well. Slovenia had an entire room for it's producers as well as Südtirol in Italy and Hungary. Also Abruzzo in Italy had an own room obviously making unionised effort to push the wines from the region in Austria. Apart from that there was Serbian wines along with a few French, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese and South American wine of rather commercial than connoisseur interest.
Nevertheless, Austrian wines was the reason of the fair and they had truly collected the most of the producers in the country and the amount of wines available could almost seem never-ending. The Bernhard Ott Rosenberg 2008 is an old favourite that was as usual absolutely splendid. Showing typical Grüner Veltliner characteristics in a semi-dry wine with powerful attitude it strikes me as nectar of life. It will be available in Sweden from september 2010.
The biodynamic producer Weingut Tauss (certifeid with Demeter) impressed me with atypical Sauvignon Blancs from Styria (Südsteiermark) with hints of tropical fruit and mineral. At the price of only 14,40 € per bottle (or 31 € for a magnum bottle) their vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Hohenegg has to be considered a bargain. I will though not neglect their generic Sauvignon Blanc from 2008 showing seriousness and an impressing palate of peaches and mango.
Red wines from Austria has so far not really caught my attention and after Vievinum not so much has changed. Anyhow, with some guidance one may occasionally find right. Weinberghof Fritsch Pinot Noir "P" 2007 shows a complex structure and a body rarely found in Austria.
All in all it was a really nice fair! For a an interested wine-nerd it was difficult to take notes due to lack of free space but one had to be creative and use corners that were available.
So long
Lucas Spinnars
Links:
Vievinum
Weingut Bernhard Ott
Weingut Tauss
Weinberghof Fritsch
If you are interrested in Austrian wine you can read more on my earlier posts here (both in Swedish).
Grüner veltliner och skotsk passion eller Trendspotting om inhemska druvsorter
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